Swatch or Richemont inhouse
#1
I keep reading a lot of rubbish on various watch sites about so called inhouse calibers . I do not believe there are more than two brands in the world that do not scource parts of their watches from outside manufacturers . They might assemble and finish the watches inhouse but most of them use the same scource for thier dials - straps- screws- hands etc etc . It would be incredibly stupid of Swatch or Richemont not to concentrate the production of parts for their brand watches in the same factorys that have the expertise and capacity to produce in greater numbers .
This out scourcing has been a tradition in the Swiss watch industry for about 100 years . And it has not
suddenly stopped because Swatch and Richemont have gained control over most Swiss brands . Patek - AP -VC- IWC and many more used
JLC calibers for many years . They were reworked and highly finished . And then Wupti ! they became inhouse calibers , and they told the
public nothing about it . The caliber had become their very own inhouse . And i ask what is wrong with that ?

I do not think there is anything wrong with it at all . I mean many cars from different brands have the same components in them . but that alone does not give us the same quality car . Watches are the same , the difference between a JLC caliber
reworked and finished by Patek and the same caliber reworked and finished by Cartier is enormous . There are hundreds of such examples .
Each brand have their own standards and tradition in the finishing of their watches . And it is this you pay for when you buy a watch.

It is impossible for anyone to get to the bottom of the enternal question of who really makes what . And in someways
it has never been the most important thing to know . The important thing is to know what kind of quality you are getting for your money . ETA have most probably the greatest expertise and capacity for making some of the most reliable and easy serviced calibers ever . Can you name
anyone close to them ? The closest i think you get is Rolex or Seiko . Yet some people look down on ETA , Crazy ! They should read about
the standards of finishing ETA can deliver and the many different calibers they make .

To many so called watch pundits never get tired of repeating the bullshit watch brands tell us about their
inhouse calibers . But it is all part of the game , its called branding and everyone does it . I just wish that brands were a little more open ,
but that is really wishfull thinking on my part Icon_e_smile

Last but not least i would like to give you some examples of how confusing it gets . And i
have nothing at all against these brands , who just follow the normal procedur . First we take Patek . Many of their watches that fetch
millions at watch auctions are from the time where they used JLC calibers , and even their cases- bracelets were not made by Patek !
But the quality of the finished product is superb , and thats what they pay for .

IWC have used ETA and JLC in many of their watches . From the only serie produced
multi complication watch in the world the Grand Complication based on a ETA caliber and costing over a million . To the humble
Aquatimer with also a reworked ETA base , that many unfairly call a ETA . I suggest they read this [url]"http://people.timezone.com/library/comarticles/comarticles631681558435961807">http://people.timezone.com/library/coma ... 8435961807[/url]
IWC rebuild and modify their ETA and JLC calibers in many cases more than Patek or AP have done with their JLC calibers .
But of course the finish is finer in the Patek or AP caliber .

Last we take Panerai and their so called inhouse calibers , If you believe in fairy storys .
You will believe that a brand who until a few years ago were almost unknown and in mothballs . Until a second rate actor wore
one in a film where he killed more people than have died in the Mexican gang wars . Richemont loved the free publicity and
used it to give Panerai a new life . The fact is that Panerai did not develop or make their new calibers inhouse . It is impossible
for them to do this , and it would be incredibly stupid of Richemont to let them do it . Richemont have other makers like JLC
who have the know how and capacity in other factorys to develop calibers for other brands . It would be foolish to let one of their
many brands misuse funds in this way . I have read a interview with a very well respected and well known watchmaker , who
really puts this in perspective . Unfortunatly i cannot find it again . It was posted once by Kristofer who visits this site now and
again . This does not mean that Panerai calibers are not of a high quality or finish . They just do the same as Patek or VC-IWC
etc etc .

The tradition of out scourcing is here to stay , and i for one am pleased about this .
No one is a master in every field of endeavour . But Swatch or Richemont are masters in using the resources avaliable to them .
And carrying on with a great Swiss tradition . And if we have to live with a few caliber snobs who really cannot see the forest
because of the trees , then so be it

Willy
- Jeg er engelsk - bor i Danmark, forstår dansk - men foretrækker at skrive på engelsk Icon_smil
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#2
well, if you think about it - it's nothing new, always sounded better to say "WE made this!"
than "we payed some savvy guys to make it for us exclusively"
Cortebert calibers - with Rolex engravings,
JLC calibers ticking in who knows how many disguises,
Cosworth DFV - - big "Ford" logo on the valvecovers, Icon_cool
nothing new . . .
Og, rart at ha' dig på vintageure igen Willy - bursting at the seams with opinions Icon_e_biggrin Icon_e_biggrin
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#3
I just wish sometimes , that others who have more insight than i do on their own favorite brands would also write more . We have some watchmakers on this site , and it would be great to hear their opinions on the calibers inside the watches they service . But i suppose they
are just to busy servicing our watches Icon_e_smile
Willy
- Jeg er engelsk - bor i Danmark, forstår dansk - men foretrækker at skrive på engelsk Icon_smil
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